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I use adobe Photoshop as little as I can, I should much prefer to get a photo right in camera for that reason I'm not investing time on every graphic. The majority of my images have been taken on average 30 minutes.
A photo taken around mid day, may be affected by harsh and high sunshine. To overcome this I positioned my model in the shadows produced by the actual branches of a considerable palm tree. I set up a large California Sun-bounce Gold and Silver Zebra reflector out in the direct sun light reflecting soft warm illumination on the front of a model.
I took a light measurement from the models face and photographed with shutter speed of 1250s aperture of f2.8 at 400 ISO. White-colored balance set to daytime.
This image was shot on my D2H with a 24mm to be able to 70mm f2,8 Nikon lens, focal length set from 42mm, 1.4 mtrs away from my personal model to emphasize her limbs also and then we had a excellent connection for creating excellent energy and leading.
Notice my own lens/eye level is within the middle of the woman's torso, this is very important when shooting wide perspective and close to your subject to avoid distortion, for example if you shoot to high up your versions head is going to be big and her legs will look like they are short like a chicken and visa versa thus its vital that you get your eye/camera lens level at the correct just the height to prevent distortion,
I will frequently shoot from your lower angle, especially if I am wanting to emphasize the gap of a models legs for hosiery pictures.
To keep the sun as blue as possible I chance with a polarizing filtration system on my lens, looking towards the west of the actual midday sun. This is how you keep the sea and heaven blue along with making my models skin/tan look great an silky by eliminating some of the particular specular reflections on her behalf skin.
If I had been taking pictures facing more to the east the skies and the sea would have been far more burned away..
When I started shooting digital I stood a lot of issues because I attempted to shoot digital exactly as I shot motion picture. Now any time I am shooting, I will always beneath expose from your meter studying, this is done a couple of of reasons, to be able to saturate color as well as to ensure I am not necessarily loosing my personal high lighting. Obviously my images will be a little about the dark side but I can easily correct for this using a little s curve in Photoshop to start the retouching process.
I usually shoot raw files and a tiny jpg, why I will explain in another Little Gem.
I process my raw file like shot in camera raw from Bridge and open them in adobe Photoshop. (Raw files have a great deal more latitude re graphic info and also will bring about far better quality photos).
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